Radon

Radon Gas and Landfill Neighbors: What You Need to Know

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Radon is different from landfill odors in one critical way: you can't smell it, see it, or taste it. The only way to know your radon level is to test for it. For landfill neighbors, radon deserves serious attention—here's why, and what to do about it.

What Is Radon?

Radon is a naturally occurring radioactive gas that forms from the decay of uranium in soil and rock. It seeps upward through soil and can accumulate in buildings. It's the second leading cause of lung cancer in the United States after smoking—responsible for approximately 21,000 deaths annually according to the EPA.

Radon is measured in picocuries per liter (pCi/L). The EPA action level is 4 pCi/L, with a recommendation to consider action above 2 pCi/L. Average US indoor level is 1.3 pCi/L.

The Landfill Connection

Landfills themselves don't create radon, but they're often located on land with specific geological characteristics (disturbed soil, proximity to certain rock formations) that can affect radon migration. More importantly, landfill operations can affect soil pressure and gas migration pathways near the facility.

The combination of high soil moisture (from landfill leachate) and pressure differentials created by landfill gas can accelerate the movement of naturally occurring radon in the surrounding area. This isn't universal, but it's a reason landfill neighbors should test regardless of whether their region is typically considered "high-radon."

How to Test for Radon

Short-term tests (2–7 days): good for quick screening but variable. Long-term tests (90 days+): the most accurate representation of average exposure. EPA recommends long-term testing as the definitive result.

Place the test in the lowest livable level of your home—basement if finished, first floor if not. Keep windows closed during short-term tests. Send to a certified lab for analysis.

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If Your Test Comes Back High

Above 4 pCi/L: the EPA recommends mitigation. Standard mitigation involves a sub-slab depressurization system—a pipe and fan that draws radon from under your foundation before it enters. This is a professional installation costing $800–$2,500, and it reduces radon levels by 90%+ in most cases.

Note: air purifiers do not meaningfully reduce radon. Radon is a gas, and while some activated carbon in sufficient volume can capture small amounts, it's not an effective mitigation strategy. For radon above 4 pCi/L, you need proper sub-slab depressurization.

Radon and Other Landfill Gases: Different Solutions

The sealing strategy you're already doing for landfill VOC infiltration also helps with radon—both travel the same pathways. Sealed foundation cracks, sealed sump pits, and proper sub-slab ventilation address both threats simultaneously.

If you install a radon mitigation system, have the installer also seal visible cracks in the foundation slab and walls—this reduces landfill gas infiltration pathways at the same time.

Action Hierarchy: Test first (90-day kit). If below 2 pCi/L, proceed with your standard sealing plan. If 2–4 pCi/L, focus on foundation sealing and retest. If above 4 pCi/L, contact a certified radon mitigation contractor (find one at NRPP.info).
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